FEATURE

Yuhi Komiyama, the Musician Who Loves Everything Spicy and Savory, on a Walking Gourmet Tour of Spicy Summer “Shibire” Dishes Through Omotesando Hills!

Spice-Lover and MusicianYuhi Komiyama Takes a WalkingGourmet Building Tour of Shibire Dishes!

The popular Omotesando Hills event “Umakara Shigeki Menu” is underway until the end of September.
A familiar face reports on the best shibire-style items from the menus of 10 participating eateries!

2019.08.13

Special Seasonal Menu Ending on the Last Day of September! Go For Shibire Levels of Savor and Spice This Summer!

Special Seasonal Menu Ending on the Last Day of September! Go For Shibire Levels of Savor and Spice This Summer!

カレーやスパイス料理をはじめとする"旨辛料理"をこよなく愛す、2ピースPOPグループ「ホフディラン」の小宮山雄飛さん。東京随一の食通であり、ミュージシャン。異色の存在と言える小宮山さんがやって来たのは、表参道ヒルズの本館3階。イタリアン、フレンチ、中華、和食など、いろいろなジャンルの飲食店が並ぶエリアです。

“All else aside, I love umakara cuisine. I eat it year-round, and I usually add spices like shichimi togarashi (a blend of seven spices including hot peppers),” he states, preferring fairly intense menus. In addition to the curry spices (which he loves so much he opened his own restaurant last year!) which have come to represent him, Komiyama also mentions stocking his home with his own original togarashi and sansho (Japanese pepper) style spices.

I’ve also always loved “shibire cuisine (or “so hot it’s numbing,” referring to dishes with added togarashi, sansho, and hanazansho spices). Back when shibire cuisine still wasn’t very big in Japan, I had my brother bring back the good kind of hanazansho (sansho flower) from Taiwan, where he lived, since I missed it. I also experimented with making my own shichimi togarashi and chili oil at home. I liked it too much, so I do some pretty ridiculous things like making my own original chili oil and curry powder as ‘Hoff Dylan’ merchandise (laughs).”

ここ数年の旨辛ブームについては「すごいシビレブームが来ていますよね! 僕の愛する『東京ディズニーランド』のポップコーンも、麻辣味のフレーバーが出ていてアガりました(笑)。いわゆる唐辛子系の激辛ブームの時は "激辛にチャレンジする"という感じでしたが、今はさらに踏み込んでシビレに進化し、"旨辛"になっていますね。どのお店もただ辛いだけじゃなくて、ちゃんとおいしい。もっと早くブームが来てほしかった!」と改めてラブコール。

Komiyama’s Hometown of Omotesando is a Nice Place for a Walk

Komiyama’s Hometown of Omotesando is a Nice Place for a Walk

小宮山さんは原宿生まれの原宿育ち。表参道は子供時代から慣れ親しんだ大切な"ふるさと"であり、今では渋谷区の観光大使クリエイティブアンバサダーも務めるなど、まさに"渋谷・表参道エリアの申し子"!

“I lived and played around this area as a kid. I’d go to school along Omotesando, to Seinan Elementary. On my way home, I’d play with friends at a little park that used to be near the ‘Dojunkai Aoyama Apartments’ that used to be where Omotesando Hills is, then study piano at a small school nearby. I’d get my parents to buy me toys at the ‘Harajuku KIDDY LAND’… The first label to sign Hoff Dylan was also very close to here, so I’ve always had a mysterious connection to things by Omotesando. I still live in Shibuya, so I visit Omotesando Hills a lot. I come to eat, then wander around and shop afterwards. There are all kinds of people, from shoppers to mothers with children on tea breaks, foreign tourists, and people at work, and it has shops, offices, residences, and even a park. I think Omotesando is a really fun place.”

Komiyama states, continuing on to note that he has favorite views of Omotesando.

「冬至の早朝、原宿からこちら側(青山側)を見ると、表参道方面から道の上を一直線に陽が昇って来るんです。もともと明治神宮の参道ですから、太陽の軌道と参道がピタッと重なるように設計されているらしくて、すごいなぁと。日本を代表する神社の参道ですし、ものすごく"気の良い"場所だと思います。お正月に表参道で初日の出を拝むのも有難いですよ」

Komiyama reflects, noting that the Omotesando area is known for Italian and French cuisine and cafes much more than umakara dishes.

「裏通りにめちゃくちゃ辛い麻婆豆腐を出す中華があるんですけど、僕が通っているのはそこぐらい。だから旨辛メニューのハシゴができる夏の表参道ヒルズは、まさに待望の激辛スポット! 表参道が大好きで、辛いものが大好きで......僕、この企画にぴったりですね(笑)」とチャーミングに話しながら、早くも腕まくり。それではさっそく、汗かき心踊る"旨辛ジャーニー"の始まりです!

A Thrilling Harmony of Savory Meat and Intense Sansho and Togarashi

A Thrilling Harmony of Savory Meat and Intense Sansho and Togarashi

Now, the part you’ve all been waiting for! Our first dish from the “Umakara Shigeki Menu” is the “grilled wagyu beef with togarashi and sansho sauce” (JPY 2,300 with tax, limit of 10 per day) from “bar a vin PARTAGER” (main building, 3F).

It is a popular French bar that offers modest portions of French cuisine with luxuriant amounts of wine. Their offering on this year’s “Umakara Shigeki Menu” is a slightly-decadent grilled steak. The steak is marinated in togarashi and grilled to a beautiful rose wine hue, topped with vividly aromatic and subtly-spicy sansho sauce, and plated with a vibrant arrangement of three types of togarashi hot peppers and piment d’espelette pepper powder from southwestern France.

“There’s a lot of spicy Chinese and other ethnic foods, but what is spicy French cuisine like? I was just wondering that…and now here I am!” says Komiyama with a glint in his eyes. The real keys to the flavor are adding beurre noisette (browned butter) and fond de veau (brown stock) to the sansho, for a sauce made with care. Komiyama takes a knife to the tender steak and cuts a small bite, which he samples with a togarashi pepper.

“Yes, it’s delicious! The aroma from the sansho is outstanding. It has a good, savory flavor that lingers, accompanied by a strong spiciness. It has body, but it’s a refreshing flavor with a fragrance that gives it great balance.”

Komiyama is also an enthusiast of spirits, to the point that he published an account of his visits to bars titled “At the Bar Alone Again”. Given this opportunity, we had him sample a marriage with the dish. We choice the Australian 2016 Barossa Valley Shiraz to pair with the dish (JPY 1,080 by the glass, including tax). The spicy red wine forms complicated links with the rich savor of the steak, the shibire numbness of the sansho sauce and togarashi, and the essence of the umakara flavor.

“It’s great with wine! I wish I could live in an endless loop of eating spicy things and drinking wine (laughs). French cuisine sometimes draws out spiciness using black pepper and other spices, but sansho was a new frontier. I think all umakara lovers should give this a try. The bar offers a lot of menu options that aren’t very spicy, so it’s a stylish place that spice-lovers and non-fans alike can enjoy together. It would also be an easy place to go on a date.”

Saying this, he finished the dish in what seemed like an instant!

-The Umakara Five-Star Ratings Chart: Yuhi Komiya Style!-
Ultra-Spicy Level:★★
Shibire Level: ★★
Satisfaction Level: ★★★★
Creativity: ★★★★★

bar a vin PARTAGER (Main Building, 3F)
(Umakara Shigeki Menu Hours) 17:00 to last order at 22:00 (Sundays: until last order at 21:00)

See here for establishment details

Guaranteed Satisfaction in the World of Ultra-Shibire-Spice!

Guaranteed Satisfaction in the World of Ultra-Shibire-Spice!

Our second stop is an umakara noodle specialty restaurant that also has a main branch in Ginza that Komiyama visits frequently: “Shibire Noodles Rosokuya” (Main Building, 3F). The Omotesando Hills restaurant just opened this April, and customers frequently wait in line to dine there. We ordered two items, a “Cold Tantan-men Noodles with Juicy Chicken” from the special “Umakara Shigeki Menu” (JPY 1,300 including tax, limit of 20 per day), as well as a “Coriander Mapo Ramen” (JPY 1,296 including tax) from the standard menu. While we put on our aprons and wait for our meals, the phrase “let’s start with a draft beer!” rings out.

Then, our “Cold Tantan-men Noodles with Juicy Chicken” from the special “Umakara Shigeki Menu” arrived. With tangy black vinegar-seasoned chicken atop distinct, fine noodles in a soup blended with Chinese hanazansho and togarashi, and topped with garlic chips, onions, and red mizuna herbs, it’s a dream dish for umakara lovers. The soup contains milk for a creamy and umakara dish, which Komiyama stirs well before digging in.

“That’s neat. The chicken clings to the tantan-men noodles. This is going to be great… Oh yeah! It’s excellent. It’s got a good level of shibire numbness, and the milk base in the soup keeps it smooth, without getting to sharp. This is definitely a good pick for shibire beginners.”

As we discuss the dish, our “Coriander Mapo Ramen” also arrives. This selection is from the exclusive Omotesando Hills branch menu, and features the stable mapo ramen topped with ample coriander. The meat-based miso forms a critical part of the flavor. This is a killer item the restaurant has put all its energy into, finished to aromatic perfection with tianmian (sweet soy) sauce and doubanjiang (spicy soy) sauce alongside hanazansho.

肉味噌、スープ、『三河屋製麺』の特注細麺のバランスが計算され尽くされており、旨・辛・シビレが三位一体となったシビラー垂涎の1杯。「パクチー入り」は初チャレンジという小宮山さんは、見るからにテンションが上がっている様子。今日はニュートラルな"中辛"を選んでみました。

「やっぱりこの麻婆麺は完璧! 爽やかなシビレが心地良くて、後味はスッキリ。パクチー入りも良いなぁ。ここ数年、麻婆麺にハマっているんですが、この店のレベルは別格。麻婆ありきでスープや麺を考えているから、本当に旨いんです。でもいつも通り"倍辛"にしても良かったな。そんな時は、自家製ぶどう山椒オイルでシビレを、唐辛子で辛みを、ブレンド酢で風味を......と卓上調味料との合わせ技で無限にアレンジできるのも最高。パクチーだから酢を少し垂らして......山椒オイル、もうちょっといっちゃおうかな。おっ、シビレが一気に来ました」

Komiyama customizes the dish to his taste with a seasoned touch, as one might expect of him.

“The ‘Coriander Mapo Ramen’ would satisfy umakara fans and ramen fanatics alike, and the ‘Cold Tantan-men Noodles with Juicy Chicken’ are perfect for a first shibire experience. It’s a great place for umakara pros and beginners to enjoy a meal together. I’d definitely recommend a visit, so long as you come expecting a line. I’ll definitely be coming back in the evenings and nights on days when I go into spice withdrawals!”

Sometime during the course of the umakara noodles and beer, Komiyama also added an order for some rice to combine with the leftover soup! This is the true standard way to enjoy the dish for fans of “Shibire Noodles Rosokuya”. After finishing with this delightful umakara risotto, we made our way to the final establishment.

-The Umakara Five-Star Ratings Chart: Yuhi Komiya Style!-
Ultra-Spicy Level: ★★★★
Shibire Level: ★★★★★
Satisfaction Level: ★★★★★
Creativity: ★★★★

Shibire Noodles Rosokuya (Main Building, 3F)
(Umakara Shigeki Menu Hours) 11:00 to last order at 22:00 (Sundays: until last order at 21:00)

See here for establishment details

Sensational Looks and Spice!

Sensational Looks and Spice!

Our final dish from the seasonal “Umakara Shigeki Menu” was the “Mala Paiko Ramen” (JPY 1,620 including tax, limit of 10 per day) from “Kageyamarou” (Main Building, 3F). The restaurant is a renowned modern Chinese chain originating from Jiyugaoka, operated by Chef Kenichi Kageyama and known for its shark fin dishes and chicken tori paitan ramen.

The moment the dish arrives at our table, a vibrant, colorful aroma surrounds us. The dish also makes an impression with its looks, with a large bone-in pork spare rib standing out atop a bowl of bright-red soup. The paiko pork spare rib is seasoned with a sauce blending spices like togarashi, sansho, star anise, and soy sauce before steaming in a bamboo vessel until the meat is soft enough to slip off the bone. It also has the amazing texture of bone-in meat. We are taking care to include meat given that this is for a special seasonal menu. So, how does it taste?

「すごく好きな味です! 生の赤唐辛子を使っているから辛さもしっかり感じるけど、ハッカクなどスパイスの複雑な香りも。スープは肉を蒸した香辛料のタレがベースで、排骨(パイコー)から旨みがしみ出している感じです。何よりお肉が異常においしい......。辛さ、旨み、スパイス使い、あと『浅草開化楼』の中太麺のバランスも良くて、これぞ"旨辛"ですね。もやしのシャキシャキ感もたまらない。紹興酒で辛さを流すと、また辛さを欲する。やっぱり無限ループだなぁ〜」

紹興酒で大人な旨辛タイムを味わいつつ、4皿目にもかかわらず軽々と完食&完飲。ホットな香辛料をたくさん摂っているはずなのに、表情はいたってクール。小宮山さん、"旨辛シビレ界の貴公子"と呼ばせてください!

-The Umakara Five-Star Ratings Chart: Yuhi Komiya Style!-
Ultra-Spicy Level: ★★★★★
Shibire Level: ★★★
Satisfaction Level: ★★★★
Creativity: ★★★

Kageyamarou (Main Building, 3F)
(Umakara Shigeki Menu Hours) 11:00 to last order at 22:00 (Sundays: until last order at 21:00) *Excluding 15:30 to 17:30

See here for establishment details

A Limited Time Chance at a Delightful, Mature Umakara Menu!

A Limited Time Chance at a Delightful, Mature Umakara Menu!

After our consecutive visits to these three establishments, Komiyama had thoroughly enjoyed the “Umakara Shigeki Menu”. His eyes seemed pleased behind his sunglasses.

“Now that is a pleasant feeling of accomplishment! Today, we tried three dishes from the ‘Umakara Shigeki Menu’. The grilled steak at ‘bar a vin PARTAGER’ lets patrons discover a whole new world of umakara flavors, while the cold tantan-men with chicken at ‘Shibire Noodles Rosokuya’ will satisfy shibire fans, and the mapo paiko ramen at ‘Kageyamarou’ offers a properly spicy, polished flavor that I love. Each has its own appeal. I may not be able to choose the best, here. This was my first marathon with spicy foods, and it was a blast!”

Komiyama continues, noting that part of the restaurant crawl’s appeal comes from doing it inside a cool building while the sun blazing.
“Naturally, it’s exciting to hear that Omotesando Hills alone is offering 10 types of umakara dishes. They’re all good enough to satisfy a sophisticate palette, too, so I’d recommend umakara restaurant marathons like I did today.”

While gazing at the “Umakara Shigeki Menu” pamphlet, Komiyama continues, saying “the spicy tagliatelle at ‘Fratelli Paradiso’ also sounds intriguing. But so does the red-hot chili fish-burger at ‘Golden Brown’. I’d also like to try the ginger cocktail from ‘Wine Shop & Bar Enoteca’,” Komiyama continues, fascinated by the other seasonal menu items. “Really, I want them to have all of this on the fixed year-round menu!” our gourmet chief adds with a sigh. It seems his endless quest for umakara flavors still continues.

Be sure to take in your fill of refreshing, invigorating umakara cuisine for over this limited-time event from August 1 (Thu) through September 30 (Mon)!

>> See here for “Umakara Shigeki Menu” details

Profile

Yuhi Komiyama
1973年東京生まれ原宿育ち。2ピースPOPグループ「ホフディラン」のヴォーカル&キーボード担当。また、音楽業界きってのグルメ番長として食関係の連載や著作も多数。2018年9月には"好き"が高じて日本初のレモンライスのテイクアウト専門店「Lemon Rice TOKYO」を渋谷にオープン。30種のオリジナルレモンライスのつくり方を紹介したレシピブックが8月中旬に発売予定。乞うご期待!

https://hoff.jp

Interview and text = Ryouko Morimoto
Photography = Katsuyoshi Motono
Editor = Junko Inui (Roaster)

This content is machine translated by an automated translation system, so it may not be possible to provide a completely correct translation.
Please note.